The Pump Room: Star Studded Chicago Dining Landmark

By Ross Everett

The venerable Pump Room Restaurant in Chicago is once again a beacon of civilized living. Famously memorialized in the Frank Sinatra song 'Chicago', the 'jumping Pump Room' was one of the first true fine dining establishments to open in the Windy City at the end of Prohibition. Almost immediately, it became a favorite of celebrities including the biggest stars in entertainment history--Frank Sinatra, Sammy Davis, Jr, Jackie Gleason, Dean Martin, Clark Gable, Humphrey Bogart, Ronald Reagan and Marilyn Monroe is just a very small list of the icons that made it a regular hangout. In the later part of the 20th century, however, it sort of fell off the map as a new wave of gourmet restaurants in the Windy City led by Charlie Trotter reduced it to a historical footnote.

The Pump Room opened in'38 under the ownership and management of Ernie Blyfield. Blyfield's inspiration for the name and ambiance of his restaurant was an'th Century London pub frequented by celebrities and nobility, including Queen Anne. The 'Pump Room' moniker came from the hot drinks 'pumped' into the cocktails of its customers.

The Chicago Pump Room was an immediate hit, and for a time its Booth #1 may have been the most sought after table at any dining establishment in the country. In addition to Sinatra, who frequently held court with Jilly Rizzo and a number of other associates in Booth 1, it was occupied at various times by Clark Gable, John Barrymore, Gertrude Lawrence, Bogart and Lauren Bacall. Liza Minnelli may have been the youngest Booth 1 regular, taken there many times during her childhood by her mother Judy Garland.

Blyfield died in'50, but the Pump Room continued to be the preferred Chicago destination for the biggest names in show biz. A new era of celebrities held court there including opera singer Beverly Sills, Paul Newman, Robert Redford, film producer Robert Evans, Eddie Murphy and others. A funny story involving the Pump Room began when the former drummer for a British progressive rock band was refused entry due to his lack of a jacket. The drummer would use this as inspiration for his next album--'No Jacket Required' which has sold over-- million copies worldwide and established Phil Collins as a solo superstar. After the album's release, the Pump Room sent Collins an apology--and an appropriate jacket for him to wear on his next trip to town.

Since being purchased by the Dallas Restaurant Group in the late'90s, things are hopping again, however. With the extremely talented chef Martial Noguier at the helm (who has worked in the kitchen of a number of Frances most renown chefs), and a $2 million dollar restoration of the facilities, the Pump Room is back among the rarefied heights of Chicagos best restaurants. Though the flaming food served on a sword that was the Pump Room trademark during its golden era is sadly absent (due to city fire codes), the menu is now up to snuff serving Noguiers sophisticated interpretation of classic American cuisine. In addition to the revamped cuisine, the Pump Room upgraded its wine offering and expanded the bar area.

The Pump Rooms stature has been maintained by current executive chef Nick Sutton. The star of the place, however, is still the almost palpable sense of history that the dining room offers. Considering that the giants of civilized culture"from Bogey all the way to the Chairman himself"have held court in that room, it is a pretty intoxicating aura. Fortunately, the Pump Room is once again worthy of such legends, and its renaissance is a victory for culinary civility in a world too often overwhelmed with Olive Gardens and Red Lobsters. - 30241

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